Tag Archives: pattern

Well this week certainly encompasses the true nature and meaning of the Greek for “passing away the winter” – paracheimazo. (Hence, the name for my blog – cheimazoknits – as I love winter and one of the better things to do while stuck indoors is creating knit items meant for staying warm.)

While the midwest is in the grips of a polar vortex plunging temperatures to record below-zero readings, I’m finally finishing this afghan I started a couple years ago.

This pattern comes from the Boye book titled “I Taught Myself Knitting” and is the “1. Homespun Ripple Afghan” which is pictured on the front cover. I bought this book at least 10 years ago, or more, so it’s definitely outdated but the pattern is classic.

Having started this blanket, I was a beginner and not using continental knitting, so the first two skeins were painstakingly slow. Mostly due to my inexperience but also due to the “old shale pattern” which contains an increase/decrease row which tends to slow things down.

Initially, I was not very impressed with the Lion Brand Homespun as it seemed to easily separate and would often split. Undoing stitches was difficult due to the increase/decrease rows and the yarn itself lends the rows to camouflage themselves, making it difficult to tell which row I should be working (but is nice, however, for masking mistakes 🙂 )

Now, a year or more later, I’m finding the yarn not as difficult to work with as my knitting style has improved greatly. Because there are 114 sts on the needles, one row alone takes a bit of time, but is a great reason to learn continental knitting if you haven’t done so yet.

Right now I’m still working on the 4th skein and will use a total of 5. The old shale pattern looks something like this (creates the rippled effect):

  • Row 1:  purl
  • Row 2: k2tog (3x);  m1,k1 (3x);  k2tog (3x) – this is done in a combination of 18 sts
  • Row 3: knit
  • Row 4: knit

To work the entire afghan:

  • CO 114 sts
  • Knit 6 rows
  • Then start the above pattern, repeating those 4 rows until length desired.

NOTE: for each of the 4 rows, create a border using k3 at the start and end of EVERY row (it’s a good idea to place knit markers here, plus at every 18 sts after the first).                   To clarify: place stitch markers after the first 3 sts, then after every 18 sts, then before the last 3 sts – this should take you to the 114 total.

  • Knit 6 rows to end

Additionally, to help you remember which row you are working on, put a stitch marker in the bottom corner of the blanket for the side which begins the first of the 4 rows (the purl row). I didn’t do this until later but it’s quite helpful now.


Some template patterns

Maker:L,Date:2017-8-19,Ver:5,Lens:Kan03,Act:Kan02,E-YOld Shale Pattern

The Old Shale Pattern gives you a scalloped edge and wavy, undulating pattern. My first try was with this afghan (using the 18 st combination below).

I’ve also incorporated it into some fingerless gloves. For the gloves I used the 12 st combination, double-point needles and opted out the purl row for all knit.

Old Shale Pattern (worked over 12 sts)

  • Row 1: purl
  • Row 2: k2tog (2x), *m1 (by picking up strand between last st and next st and knitting into it), k1* (repeating between * 4x), k2tog (2x)
    Repeat these 3 sequences to end of row.
  • Row 3: knit
  • Row 4: knit

Old Shale Pattern (worked over 18 sts) (used in afghan)

  • Row 1: purl
  • Row 2: k2tog (3x), *m1 (by picking up strand between last st and next st and knitting into it), k1* (repeating between * 6x), k2tog (3x)
    Repeat these 3 sequences to end of row.
  • Row 3: knit
  • Row 4: knit

Honeycomb Stitch – The pattern speaks for itself!

Maker:L,Date:2017-8-19,Ver:5,Lens:Kan03,Act:Kan02,E-Y   Maker:L,Date:2017-8-19,Ver:5,Lens:Kan03,Act:Kan02,E-Y

Row 1: (RS) Knit each st across the row
Row 2: (WS) K1, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * across the row.
Row 3: Knit each st across row
Row 4: K2, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * across the row to last st, knit 1.

Repeat rows 1 – 4

This pattern created a girls’ size 7.

This is an easy, no-brainer pattern that results in a one-of-a-kind skirt!

US 7 straight needles
18-20 sts = 4 inches
2 balls of Santorini (58% viscose / 42% cotton); 50 g / 125 yds; (color shown is #2108)
hand wash cool, dry flat

CO 120 sts
Then choose ANY stitch you desire for each row. I randomly chose out of these various row styles:

  1. Knit entire row
  2. Purl entire row
  3. Double-wrap knit row (wrap around your needle twice, instead of once as in a normal knit) -> results in a triangular stitch.
  4. Two-needle wrap, knit row (wrap once around both needles) -> creates a twisted stitch.
  5. These 3 rows in combination:
    • k1, *yo, yo, k1*, k1
    • k1, *k2, p1*, k1
    • k1, *k3tog*, k1
  6. These 3 rows in combination:
    • k1, *yo, k1*, k1
    • knit
    • k1, *k2tog*, k1

I inadvertently obtained a slight flare at the bottom (beginning) of the skirt by using the following combination for the first 9 rows:

    • 1 knit row
    • 1 double-wrap row
    • 1 knit row
    • 1 purl row
    • 1 knit row
    • 3 rows of # 5 above
    • 1 double-wrap row
    • 1 knit row
    • 3 rows of #6 above

After that I omitted the #5 combination since it widened the skirt when I wanted it to remain rectangular (at least for the remainder, anyway) and added a rayon liner.

Lanesplitter (knitty.com)

This pattern has turned into one of my favorites for whipping up an awesome winter skirt – great over leggings, paired with some cute boots – this skirt provides warmth for even the coldest winters.

Lanesplitter – 2019 (second skirt)


My second Lanesplitter skirt, a year later, turned out much better than the first. This time I turned it inside-out and crocheted the waistband directly to the edge. Similarly, I followed the same pattern resulting in a simple rectangle then stitched the short edges together to form the skirt. Following that, I added the waistband and pulled the looseness together by crocheting in the round and decreasing chains as I went.

⦁ US 10 1/2 straight needles (for body of skirt)
⦁ J – 5.75mm crochet hook (for waistband)
⦁ [MC – A] Gina, Plymouth Yarn Co. – 100% wool; 50g/109 yds – color #0017 (blues, greens and brown) ($7/skein) (these are the background colors)
⦁ [CC – B] – 100% cottons for green/blue, 100% buffalo for brown (no tags, came from WI farm) (these are the ridge colors)
⦁ [Waistband – C] – Loops & Threads Bulky Charisma (biege).

Lanesplitter – 2018 (first attempt)


Notes: I needed 6 skeins of Noro Kureyon colors #102 and #149. The original pattern calls for Tahki Cotton Classic for the contrasting color but the following a display skirt from Yarnology in Winona, MN I used all wool instead.

I obtained the following measurements (after blocking), trying for the M size (19.5 on increase, 36 on the straight, and 144 CO for the waistband):
15″ – top width (with 144 co for the waistband)
18″ – bottom width
25″ – length (turned out MUCH longer than expected!)

Also, for adding the waistband, I inserted the skirt into the waistband and crocheted it together. I lined up the bound off edge of the waistband with the top of the skirt, and then crocheted into it (see pics). I used only single crochet and kept the yarn on the backside (instead of passing over the top).


Since the skirt edge circumference was larger than the waistband, and rather floppy, I tried to bunch up the skirt edge a little bit with every single crochet and it worked out rather well.





US 8, 16″ circular needles

US 7 double-pointed needles

Katia Cotton-Merino (70% cotton / 30% wool)

Steps for hat (US 8, 16″ circular):

  • CO 56/64/72/80 (Sizes: 0-3 mo / 3-6 mo / 6-12 m / 12m+)  (Size 12m+ shown)
  • Rounds 1-5: *k1,p1* repeating to end
  • 15/20/25/28 rounds of k
  • Start decreasing:
    • R1: *k6, k2tog* repeating to end of round
    • R2: k (k on all even rounds)
    • R3: *k5, k2tog* repeating to end
    • R4: k
    • R5: *k4, k2tog* repeating to end
    • R6: k
    • R7: *k3, k2tog* repeating to end
    • R8: k
    • R9: *k2, k2tog* repeating to end
    • R10: k
    • R11: *k1, k2tog* repeating to end
    • R12: k
    • R13: k2tog

Steps for ears (US 7 double-pointed or straight needles):

Back side of each ear:

  • CO 12 sts in backside color (dark shown)
  • R1: k (knit in tail)
  • R2: p
  • R3: k
  • R4: p
    • R5: k, dec first 2 sts
    • R6: p, dec first 2 sts
  • Repeat rows 5 and 6 until 5 sts are left, then bind off

Front side of each ear:

  • CO 10 (do not knit in tail) and do the same pattern as back side



These wraps are perfect for summer when heading indoors to over-chilled air conditioned buildings, plus they’re quick and easy to make!

Needles: US 8 or 9
Guage: 12 sts ≅ 4″
Yarn: 3.52 oz / 100g, Uluru Jasper Green (Queensland Collection)


  • CO 36/48/60 (S/M/L or an even #); (S and M shown)
  • k 3 rows
  • k2, *yo, k2tog* to last 2 sts, k2
  • k 3 rows
  • Begin pattern:
    • 10 rows of:   k2, [yo, k2tog] to last 2 sts, k2
    • 5 rows of: k
      • On every third row of these 5 rows, create eyelet on both ends using:
      • (eyelet row) k2, yo, k2tog, [k] to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2
  • Repeat pattern of 15 rows 12/15/18 times
  • End with k 5 rows (these 5 will be where you add buttons – do not create eyelets on the last 5) and bind off on 6th row of k


* Pattern originally by Margaret K.K. Radcliffe / Maggie’s Rags creates a nice thick washcloth

US 7 (4.5 mm) needles
100% cotton yarn (such as Sugar’n Cream; Lily’s)

  • CO 45 stitches
  • Row 1 (Right Side): knit
  • Row 2 (Wrong Side): *k1, slip 1 purlwise*, repeat ending with k1
  • Row 3: knit
  • Row 4: k2, *slip 1, k1* to last 3 sts, slip 1, k2
  • Repeat these 4 rows to desired length, finishing the last row on Wrong Side
  • Bind off